Pump and Motor Trouble Shooting
Some of the following is intended for information only. It is not intended
to be used by anyone but a professional with experience in repairing or trouble shooting
electrical motors and other electrical components.
Pump
Runs, But Pumps No Water
|
Most Obvious |
|
- Check for dirty filter--High pressure reading.
- Check for clogged or skimmer basket--Low pressure reading.
- Check for closed valve
- Check for "Air Lock" in suction line. (particularly if line is above
pump level, remove lid from strainer pot to relieve air.
- Water level too low (below skimmers)
|
|
| If you have checked all the above, fill pump housing and strainer
pots with water and check to see if it leaks down, than check (A) below. If it does not
leak down, check (B) below. |
|
| (A) Next Check |
|
- Air suction leak-- Low or pulsating pressure reading
| -Cracked pipe on suction side. (Check all exposed pipes) |
|
| -Loose fitting on suction side. (Check all exposed pipes) |
|
| -Bad O-rings or gaskets on pump or traps. |
|
| -Cracked pump or strainer housing |
|
| -Warped cover on strainer housings |
|
|
|
| (B) If Everything
Above Appears Ok |
|
- Suction line could be clogged. (Stick garden hose into suction line at pump
strainer pot, pressure blast debris if clogged.)
- Pump could be defective. Check pump internally for any of the following:.
| -Clogged impeller |
|
| -Badly worn or broken impeller |
|
| -Check for excessive wear on any wear rings or diffusers. |
|
|
|
| (C) If Installation
Is New |
|
- Total head of the plumbing system is higher than the designed head of the pump
- A Check-Valve may be defective or plumbed backwards.
- Suction-Lift required is more than the pump can attain.
|
|
GENERAL TIPS
Does pump sound different than normal? Could be air cavitation on the suction side, caused
by one or more of the symptoms above. Or, if the pump sounds like its working hard the
cause is usually back pressure from a dirty filter.Look for gray or
white residue from leaks around the pump indicating leaks from a seal or O-ring.
|
|
Pump
Runs, But Pumps Low Water Flow
|
Most Obvious |
|
- Check for dirty filter--High pressure reading.
- Check for clogged or skimmer basket--Low pressure reading.
- Check for closed valve
- Check for "Air Lock" in suction line. (particularly if line is above
pump level, remove lid from strainer pot to relieve air.
- Water level too low (below skimmers)
|
|
| If you have checked all the above, fill pump housing and strainer
pots with water and check to see if it leaks down, than check (A) below. If it does not
leak down, check (B) below. |
|
| (A) Next Check |
|
- Air suction leak-- Low or pulsating pressure reading
| -Cracked pipe on suction side. (Check all exposed pipes) |
|
| -Loose fitting on suction side. (Check all exposed pipes) |
|
| -Bad O-rings or gaskets on pump or traps. |
|
| -Cracked pump or strainer housing |
|
| -Warped cover on strainer housings |
|
|
|
| (B) If Everything
Above Appears OK |
|
- Suction line could be clogged. (Stick garden hose into suction line at pump
strainer pot, pressure blast debris if clogged.)
- Pump could be defective. Check pump internally for any of the following:.
| -Clogged impeller |
|
| -Badly worn or broken impeller |
|
| -Check for excessive wear on any wear rings or diffusers. |
|
|
|
| (C) If Installation
Is New |
|
- Total head of the plumbing system is higher than the designed head of the pump
- A Check-Valve may be defective or plumbed backwards.
- Suction-Lift required is more than the pump can attain.
|
|
GENERAL TIPS
Does pump sound different than normal? Could be air cavitation on the suction side, caused
by one or more of the symptoms above. Or, if the pump sounds like its working hard the
cause is usually back pressure from a dirty filter.Look for gray or
white residue from leaks around the pump indicating leaks from a seal or O-ring.
|
|
PUMP
RUNS, BUT NOISY
|
Isolate Sounds |
|
| If sound is coming from motor |
|
- Could be bad bearings
- Check for dirty or clogged cooling fan (Openings or slots near front of motor)
- Could be a bent shaft (Could have been dropped or sometimes they warp if
overheated)
|
|
| If sound is coming from the pump |
|
- Cavitation from low water flow (see low water flow section above)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
- Broken or bad mechanical seal
|
|
| Listen to the sounds with a mechanics stethoscope or my favorite,
a large long shafted screwdriver. Place the metal end of the screwdriver on the object you
want to listen to, and the handle end in your ear. As you move the metal end around you
can hear the sound changes. CAUTION: Don't get the listening device
into moving or electrical parts. |
|
MOTOR
DOES NOT RUN
|
| CAUTION: Some of the following
procedures may require an electrician or a person qualified for motor repair |
Most Obvious |
 |
- Check to see if on/off switch is on
|
|
|
- Check circuit breakers (Turn off then back on)
|
- Is electricity actually getting to terminals on motor.
|
| If electricity is not getting to motor, you have an electrical
problem, call electrician. |
| If electricity is getting to terminals on motor proceed to the
following |
| Next Check |
- Check voltage: (Caution: should be
done by an electrician)
|
| -Remove motor end canopy |
|
| -Set meter for nameplate voltage |
|
| -Put one lead on L1 and the other lead on L2 |
|
|
|
- Voltage should be within 10% of nameplate voltage
|
|
- If voltage is OK proceed to the following
|
|
Caution
!!!!! Disconnect Power for next set of tests |
- Check Start-Capacitor (Not all motors have one)Electric
Disconnected
|
 |
| -Slip heavy piece of paper between starter points |
|
| -Discharge capacitor by touching the two leads with an insulated
screwdriver. Discarge capacitor each time you test. |
|
| -Set ohmeter to R x 1K |
|
| -Atach one probe to each lead of capacitor, meter needle should
move rapidly to right anad slowly move back to the left. (If using a digital meter,
readings should start low than rapidly increase to maximum.) |
|
| -Replace capacitor if bad. |
|
|
| Remember to remove paper from between the points when
finished. |
 |
| Next Check |
- Check thermal protector-Electric Disconnected
|
| -Set ohmeter to R x 1 |
| -Resistance between terminals 1 & 2 should be approximately 0 |
| -Resistance between terminals 2 & 3 should be approximately 0 |
| -Replace if either value exceeds 1 ohms |
|
| Next Check |
|
| Mechanical starter switch check-Electric
Disconnected |
|
|
|
|
| -Make sure there are no obstructions preventing the proper
operation of the rotating governor. |
| -Check wiring and make sure it is clear of the governor |
| -Check governor and make sure weight flipper is free to move. |
|
|
|
|
|
| -Check switch points for severely burned or pitted surfaces |
| -Visually check the action of the points and the governor |
| -Points should be closed with motor not running |
| -Reach in and raise the governor weight until it touches the
stops on the governor. |
| -The clearance between the projection on the governor and the
white button on the points should be .030" to .040" (about the thickness of a
paper clip wire) |
|
|
- Starter Switch adjustment
|
|
| -Turn the adjustment screw until the correct clearance is reached |
|
|
| Next Check |
|
| Winding Continuity |
|
- The following procedures are for a typical motor with the following
specifications:
|
|
| -Single Phase |
| -dual voltage |
| -capacitor start |
| -single speed |
| -terminal board connected for 230V |
|
|
- To test for winding continuity
|
|
| -Set ohmeter to R x 1K |
| -Slip paper between the points |
| -Discharge capacitor |
| -Take the following readings |
- L1 to A------ & ------A to yellow
| -Resistance should be the same |
- Yellow to Red-------& ------L1 to Red
| -Resistance should be the same |
|
|
|
| If reading differ, check all leads and wires for
breaks, loose connections, etc., which can be repaired. The problem could be an open or
shorted winding, in which case, the motor should be replaced. |
|
|